You probably won’t see any snack-size gray matter in trick-or-treat bags this Halloween — even for those dressed as the walking dead — but if their grandparents grew up in St. Louis, they might just remember a time when brains were a staple. Brain sandwiches is a regional delicacy that dates back to the 1800s, when the proximity of St. Louis to the East St. Louis, Illinois, stockyards made cow brains widely available. Since brains were not able to be sold, the workers were allowed free access to them, and it became something they got used to eating. The traditional way of preparing them was to fry them in lard. Of course, the stockyards eventually closed, but brain sandwiches haven’t entirely disappeared there. The fried brain sandwich has been a standout item on the menu at Schottzie’s Bar & Grill in Affton. Co-owner Mike Carlson, who says brain sandwiches are a South County tradition, explained that the brains show up frozen in what looks like “a big block of brains.” They’re defrosted, sliced, shaped into patties, splashed with egg wash, and dredged in Schottzie’s flour-and-spice blend before being refrozen. Deep-fried to order, the brains come with red onions, pickles, and hot mustard on toasted bun or marble rye. “The brains themselves don’t have a tremendous amount of taste to them,” said Carlson. “It’s our breading and spices that give the sandwich its flavor.” The brains are hard to get these days, so if you plan on visiting Schottzie’s specifically for the heady eating adventure, it’s best to use your noggin and call ahead.
